I am looking at ordering a DIN mounted single phase kW/h meter with a pulse output of 100 imp/kWh. Can someone confirm that this would be compatible with the Flukso and that I would set the meter constant to 10?
To be precise: Pulses are registered on falling edge - https://github.com/flukso/flm02/blob/develop/avr/b/main.c#L266 - so the timing of expected "falling edge to falling edge" between two pulses must be set to actually "have" two falling edges and no overlaps.
|----| |----|
| | | |
_____| |__________| |____________
^ ^
here pulses are registered,
so the pulse length must less than next pulse to occur
vk2him |
Thanks again Marcus for a very good explanation - cheers!
B-Man |
got the B23
wont be installed yet as house is only just getting built. so cant play with the settings just yet
postage was exceptional express postage only took 1 day got it the next morning
as for the setup 30ms pulse width? and what would be the highest recommended for best accuracy pulses/KWh?
(as most of my usage is around 200 -600 w/h (standby to moderate usage)
B-Man |
cant edit (accidentally posted before i had finished)
and i mainly get small peaks up to 5000-6000 w/h
vk2him |
Per Marcus's calculations on previous page - you can program it to be anywhere from 30-150m/s or even faster.
You may have a misconception regarding impulses and accuracy - they are not related, the unit is just as accurate at 1 impulse per kw/h compares to 1,000 impulses - what you're probably referring to is resolution, ie, the more impulses per kw/r the shorter the period between when your readings will be displayed, ie, if you have a base load of 1kw/hr and have one impluse, then the graph only updates once an hour. if you have 1,000 impulses per kw/hr then the graphs update 16.7 times per minute ...
It says 13 (C), so I assume Common = Ground, thus 15 is the "positive connection" - you have only two choices and to a high probability will not break anything if reversed (just no pulse then).
Hi. I have tried connect from B24 pulses to plc. But I get permanent signal. No pulses. Anybody knows how should I need to configure for right pulse output?
adamvh |
I also having trouble working out the pinout on the ABB digital meters
B-Man |
since dropbox change the way they lnik pictures my links dont work.
Your a champion I had the pins at the wrong end :)
I also increased th frequency to 1000 with a constant of 1 and it's reading correctly.
If you want to increase the frequency to 10,000 do you use a constant of 0.1 ?
Or is 1000 good enough?
adamvh |
I ended up using 5000 imp/kWh at 30ms pulse length with a 0.2 constant.
B-Man |
no problems happy to help. just lucky you sent me a message and got it as an email as i haven't frequented the forums for a while.
im not sure what i set mine on. i have a constant of 1 so assuming 1000 pulses per min. i figure since i read mine on pvoutput that is averaged out over 5 minutes i had no need to be getting that fine of a reading.
B-Man |
can i connect 2 devices to this pulse output? ie 2 wires out of 13 and 2 wires out of 15? so both devices can read the pulses?
B-Man |
or do i put the second one in 16 and 13? and turn on 2 pulse output?
gebhardm |
Don‘t connect two devices! Open collector means that the device sends the power it needs to read the pulse. And that means that two reading devices may conflict. You actually have to make two OC outputs from one. And that is a bit tricky https://github.com/gebhardm/flm03/blob/master/interfacing.md
B-Man |
the ABB B23 actually has 2 pulse output so if i enable the second output i should be able to hook it up. will test and see
Does that diagram show connecting 2 outputs into 1 input of the flukso?
gebhardm |
No, the other way around, bringing one output to two FLM inputs, as the text should describe... (in my case reading the same PV output from an FLM02 and an FLM03 for direct comparison)
If your meter has two separate outputs, then this will be fine.
B-Man |
ah ok i understand now its input and output of the device you have to make.
did you make that device shown in your link?
are you able to make and post one for a fee?
gebhardm |
Hello B-Man,
parts can be used from the spare box, so there is actually not much about that (any optocoupler with transistor out will do and any general purpose transistor as the current source). Do you have a soldering capable student or pupil at hand? Would be much less expensive than postage from Europe to Down Under - and I don't know what customs does when they detect cables and electronic obscurities in a parcel these days ;-) All in all it is less than an afternoon project on a breadboard.
B-Man |
do you have a parts list for that diagram ?
i can solder and do tinker but never done anything like this. it's going to cost me about $30AU to buy everything needed if i have worked it out correctly
gebhardm |
20 Eur, pew, sounds a lot. BOM:
* 2 optocouplers 2N37 (just because there where some; they seem out of stock these days), 4N35 or equivalent, TIL111, PC123, general purpose transistor, not TRIAC..., not more than 30 cent each
* 1 LED red, green, blue, yellow, what you have, doesn't matter, just for display of operation, 5 cents?
* 2 universal NPN transistors, BC546, 2N2222, what the spare box has, 5 cents each?
* 1 resistor 4k7 ohms as base resistor for the current source, 2 cents
* 1 resistor 56 ohms as reference for the 10mA (U/R = I w/ U=Emitter-Base voltage 0,6V --> 0,6V/56Ohm = ~10mA), 2 cents
* 3 2-pin terminals, if you want not to solder wires directly - if you take golden ones, these are expensive ;-)
* 1 veroboard or breadboard or what you want to use; you could even make it with pushpins on a piece of wood, 1 Eur?
The overall price is around 2 Eur plus the fun to burn fingers ;-)
B-Man |
i have bought everything on ebay through china to make it cheaper.at a total of $9
sadly its cheaper to buy 50 resistors for $1 from china than 1 resistor in store or a pkt of 2 resistors on ebay in australia is $2.5
as for the breadboard i really don't know what i need to get. i want something simple that would fit in that enclosure but most things are too big. and also cost quite a bit for what it is
gebhardm |
I actually use an enclosure exactly like that; it cost me nothing as it was from a company's junkyard... For the breadboard, go for something like the prototyping boards sold on amazon https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Prototype-Soldering-Compatible-Arduino/dp/... - they cost also just cents here in Europe...
gebhardm |
Single sided is even enough; beside epoxy there are copper-plated hard-paper boards; sizes Euro-format 10x16 cm and smaller; you may cut it to your convenience, of course; sad the times when there is no Radio Shack or equivalent in any town; may be there is a HAM around; they have such things also in there spare boxes.
B-Man |
Thanks finally got everything ordered
Probably 30 day wait before they arrive so i can build it.
1 think where to i get 12v and ground from for this board?
To be precise: Pulses are registered on falling edge - https://github.com/flukso/flm02/blob/develop/avr/b/main.c#L266 - so the timing of expected "falling edge to falling edge" between two pulses must be set to actually "have" two falling edges and no overlaps.
Thanks again Marcus for a very good explanation - cheers!
got the B23
wont be installed yet as house is only just getting built. so cant play with the settings just yet
postage was exceptional express postage only took 1 day got it the next morning
heres the ports for anyone thats still unsure.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58260317/House/2015-08-30%2021.21.59...
everything from the pictures in the manual etc made me believe it was the other way around but then i saw something on the case.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58260317/House/2015-08-30%2021.23.32...
as for the setup 30ms pulse width? and what would be the highest recommended for best accuracy pulses/KWh?
(as most of my usage is around 200 -600 w/h (standby to moderate usage)
cant edit (accidentally posted before i had finished)
and i mainly get small peaks up to 5000-6000 w/h
Per Marcus's calculations on previous page - you can program it to be anywhere from 30-150m/s or even faster.
You may have a misconception regarding impulses and accuracy - they are not related, the unit is just as accurate at 1 impulse per kw/h compares to 1,000 impulses - what you're probably referring to is resolution, ie, the more impulses per kw/r the shorter the period between when your readings will be displayed, ie, if you have a base load of 1kw/hr and have one impluse, then the graph only updates once an hour. if you have 1,000 impulses per kw/hr then the graphs update 16.7 times per minute ...
is 13 or 15 the positive connection?
also found this pic on working out the terminals
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/58260317/House/20151203_204427.jpg
It says 13 (C), so I assume Common = Ground, thus 15 is the "positive connection" - you have only two choices and to a high probability will not break anything if reversed (just no pulse then).
If like me you only had a single or 2 spaces (like me) in DIN rail I used these (single phase)
1 for mains consumption, 1 for solar generation.
http://www.schnap.com.au/kilowatt-hour-meter/single-phase-electric-kilow...
http://www.schnap.com.au/kilowatt-hour-meter/single-phase-electric-kilow...
Baz
Hi. I have tried connect from B24 pulses to plc. But I get permanent signal. No pulses. Anybody knows how should I need to configure for right pulse output?
I also having trouble working out the pinout on the ABB digital meters
since dropbox change the way they lnik pictures my links dont work.
here's the pictures again
https://www.dropbox.com/s/b2ri5u6jl6vneuv/2015-08-30%2021.21.59.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/13siqwr5fhinjfi/2015-08-30%2021.23.32.jpg?dl=0
Your a champion I had the pins at the wrong end :)
I also increased th frequency to 1000 with a constant of 1 and it's reading correctly.
If you want to increase the frequency to 10,000 do you use a constant of 0.1 ?
Or is 1000 good enough?
I ended up using 5000 imp/kWh at 30ms pulse length with a 0.2 constant.
no problems happy to help. just lucky you sent me a message and got it as an email as i haven't frequented the forums for a while.
im not sure what i set mine on. i have a constant of 1 so assuming 1000 pulses per min. i figure since i read mine on pvoutput that is averaged out over 5 minutes i had no need to be getting that fine of a reading.
can i connect 2 devices to this pulse output? ie 2 wires out of 13 and 2 wires out of 15? so both devices can read the pulses?
or do i put the second one in 16 and 13? and turn on 2 pulse output?
Don‘t connect two devices! Open collector means that the device sends the power it needs to read the pulse. And that means that two reading devices may conflict. You actually have to make two OC outputs from one. And that is a bit tricky https://github.com/gebhardm/flm03/blob/master/interfacing.md
the ABB B23 actually has 2 pulse output so if i enable the second output i should be able to hook it up. will test and see
Does that diagram show connecting 2 outputs into 1 input of the flukso?
No, the other way around, bringing one output to two FLM inputs, as the text should describe... (in my case reading the same PV output from an FLM02 and an FLM03 for direct comparison)
If your meter has two separate outputs, then this will be fine.
ah ok i understand now its input and output of the device you have to make.
did you make that device shown in your link?
are you able to make and post one for a fee?
Hello B-Man,
parts can be used from the spare box, so there is actually not much about that (any optocoupler with transistor out will do and any general purpose transistor as the current source). Do you have a soldering capable student or pupil at hand? Would be much less expensive than postage from Europe to Down Under - and I don't know what customs does when they detect cables and electronic obscurities in a parcel these days ;-) All in all it is less than an afternoon project on a breadboard.
do you have a parts list for that diagram ?
i can solder and do tinker but never done anything like this. it's going to cost me about $30AU to buy everything needed if i have worked it out correctly
20 Eur, pew, sounds a lot. BOM:
* 2 optocouplers 2N37 (just because there where some; they seem out of stock these days), 4N35 or equivalent, TIL111, PC123, general purpose transistor, not TRIAC..., not more than 30 cent each
* 1 LED red, green, blue, yellow, what you have, doesn't matter, just for display of operation, 5 cents?
* 2 universal NPN transistors, BC546, 2N2222, what the spare box has, 5 cents each?
* 1 resistor 4k7 ohms as base resistor for the current source, 2 cents
* 1 resistor 56 ohms as reference for the 10mA (U/R = I w/ U=Emitter-Base voltage 0,6V --> 0,6V/56Ohm = ~10mA), 2 cents
* 3 2-pin terminals, if you want not to solder wires directly - if you take golden ones, these are expensive ;-)
* 1 veroboard or breadboard or what you want to use; you could even make it with pushpins on a piece of wood, 1 Eur?
The overall price is around 2 Eur plus the fun to burn fingers ;-)
i have bought everything on ebay through china to make it cheaper.at a total of $9
sadly its cheaper to buy 50 resistors for $1 from china than 1 resistor in store or a pkt of 2 resistors on ebay in australia is $2.5
the only things i don't have is the breadboard or enclosure.
i found this enclosure that would be perfect but by the time i pay freight it cost more than the rest of the device! https://www.jaycar.com.au/jiffy-box-black-83-x-54-x-31mm-bulkhead-ub5/p/...
as for the breadboard i really don't know what i need to get. i want something simple that would fit in that enclosure but most things are too big. and also cost quite a bit for what it is
I actually use an enclosure exactly like that; it cost me nothing as it was from a company's junkyard... For the breadboard, go for something like the prototyping boards sold on amazon https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-Prototype-Soldering-Compatible-Arduino/dp/... - they cost also just cents here in Europe...
Single sided is even enough; beside epoxy there are copper-plated hard-paper boards; sizes Euro-format 10x16 cm and smaller; you may cut it to your convenience, of course; sad the times when there is no Radio Shack or equivalent in any town; may be there is a HAM around; they have such things also in there spare boxes.
Thanks finally got everything ordered
Probably 30 day wait before they arrive so i can build it.
1 think where to i get 12v and ground from for this board?
Use a split cable for the FLM's power supply; there are such with one input jack 5mm/2.1mm and two to four output plugs to distribute DC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sourcingmap-2-1x5-5mm-Female-Power-Splitter/dp/... - see the image of my prototype; https://github.com/gebhardm/flm03/blob/master/interfacing.md - there is the power jack at the bottom, the LED to the left and the tiny setup of OCs and current source; half of the board it just unused...
thanks all ordered! cant wait to build it
i see you have put a picture of yours up now it looks good :)