I am looking at ordering a DIN mounted single phase kW/h meter with a pulse output of 100 imp/kWh. Can someone confirm that this would be compatible with the Flukso and that I would set the meter constant to 10?
So i have most parts from china just waiting of the 4k7 resistor so going to start building it.
i was testing the LED i got and they appear to be 3.3volt as testing with a 5v charger seems to blow them up.
is this going to be an issue placing the LED in the circuit since its running 12v?
should i of got a 12V LED?
there is no resistor before the LED from the 12V source...
gebhardm |
It is about current, not voltage. The two transistors and the resistors make a current source. LEDs don‘t like overcurrent as the have a fixed forward voltage. Make yourself familiar with some foundational principles of electronics, e.g with practical electronics for inventors by Paul Scherz...
gebhardm |
Addendum: The ultimate book is Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics, of course ;-)
And NEVER run an LED without current limiter; Mr. Ohm is your friend: Resistance = Voltage / Current => R = (5V - forward voltage of the LED, e.g. 1.8V) / current (e.g. 10mA) = 320 Ohm; use 470 Ohms on 5V and you are probably safe, IF you don't use low current LEDs, then the current is just 2mA and the needed current limiter resistor is 1600 Ohm...
B-Man |
@gebhardm
i have soldered up my pulse splitter but when connected the led light doesn't light up at all.
i have ran through the layout multiple times and it all appears like its wired the same as the diagram
im using 2N2222A transistors
im 99% sure i wired up the optocouplers correctly pin1 has the indent above it... and unless i wired up the 2N2222A transistors backwards but from what i googled it looks correct i can't see why it wouldn't work.
if i only connect the input the led light should flash with the pulses correct?
if i bridge it with the flukso connected to input as well the led light just constantly stays on.
any ideas?
B-Man |
so after testing everything i found that the dc barrel power connection was faulty. put a new one on and it works. the earth pin was broken inside
gebhardm |
Cool, congrats... Let‘s make this the end of this thread...
B-Man |
how many amps should the digital meter have?
i want to hook up a pulse meter to my parents meter box and its single phase just wondering what sort of amps im going to need so i know what pulse meters are acceptable or not... most single phase single din are 40 and saw a couple at 45 amps is this enough?
B-Man |
also since the solar is connected as net due to the inverter location can the pulse meters record on import only?
if it had 2 pulse outputs could i have 1 connected to import and 1 to export?
but not sure if its what im after and really would like a single din as i only have 1 din slot available.
laso would prefer something a little cheaper if possible
So i have most parts from china just waiting of the 4k7 resistor so going to start building it.
i was testing the LED i got and they appear to be 3.3volt as testing with a 5v charger seems to blow them up.
is this going to be an issue placing the LED in the circuit since its running 12v?
should i of got a 12V LED?
there is no resistor before the LED from the 12V source...
It is about current, not voltage. The two transistors and the resistors make a current source. LEDs don‘t like overcurrent as the have a fixed forward voltage. Make yourself familiar with some foundational principles of electronics, e.g with practical electronics for inventors by Paul Scherz...
Addendum: The ultimate book is Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics, of course ;-)
And NEVER run an LED without current limiter; Mr. Ohm is your friend: Resistance = Voltage / Current => R = (5V - forward voltage of the LED, e.g. 1.8V) / current (e.g. 10mA) = 320 Ohm; use 470 Ohms on 5V and you are probably safe, IF you don't use low current LEDs, then the current is just 2mA and the needed current limiter resistor is 1600 Ohm...
@gebhardm
i have soldered up my pulse splitter but when connected the led light doesn't light up at all.
i have ran through the layout multiple times and it all appears like its wired the same as the diagram
im using 2N2222A transistors
im 99% sure i wired up the optocouplers correctly pin1 has the indent above it... and unless i wired up the 2N2222A transistors backwards but from what i googled it looks correct i can't see why it wouldn't work.
if i only connect the input the led light should flash with the pulses correct?
if i bridge it with the flukso connected to input as well the led light just constantly stays on.
any ideas?
so after testing everything i found that the dc barrel power connection was faulty. put a new one on and it works. the earth pin was broken inside
Cool, congrats... Let‘s make this the end of this thread...
how many amps should the digital meter have?
i want to hook up a pulse meter to my parents meter box and its single phase just wondering what sort of amps im going to need so i know what pulse meters are acceptable or not... most single phase single din are 40 and saw a couple at 45 amps is this enough?
also since the solar is connected as net due to the inverter location can the pulse meters record on import only?
if it had 2 pulse outputs could i have 1 connected to import and 1 to export?
can anyone recommend one?
i found this
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/digital-power-meters/1440529/
https://docs-apac.rs-online.com/webdocs/15e4/0900766b815e4919.pdf
but not sure if its what im after and really would like a single din as i only have 1 din slot available.
laso would prefer something a little cheaper if possible